The Building Profession is traditionally slow to change and adapt to new methods and materials.

One example is the use of OSB sheathing verses the “good-ol” CDX plywood. I still find, in 2011, some builders who have never used nor plan to use OSB. When asked why, their answers seem to boil down to a few false ideas. Without further evaluation many dismiss OSB because they have seen the result of water damage to particle board in cabinet countertops. They remain convinced that OSB is similar and will come to pieces in high moisture. There is also, to some, a question of strength. How could a bunch of wood fibers that are pressed together be as good as the old standby, CDX plywood?

I was a bit skeptical myself when I first came across OSB as an option – several years ago. However when I took a look at the product I had to admit it was quite well worth the try. I\’m going to go over a few myths that I have heard regarding OSB – but first let\’s cover a few definitions:

Sheathing is used to stiffen a group of parallel framing members to keep them from racking. It is sometimes called a diaphragm.

Plywood is a flat sheet of wood that is quite strong because of the way it is made. It consists of layers of wood (thin veneers) which are laminated together in alternating grain orientations. Since wood has a weak direction and a strong direction (relative to its grain pattern) these layers contain wood turned in different directions to gain strength in all directions. CDX plywood is a designation indicating a rough finish and a glue that is okay for exterior use.

OSB (meaning Oriented Strand Board) is produced by taking small fibers from smaller, low diameter trees and bonding them with a resin, heat and pressure. These panels achieve excellent strength in all directions.

Myths:

Myth 1 OSB lacks the strength of CDX plywood. This is untrue. All building codes and dictating standards make no differentiation between OSB and plywood. For sheathing, they are considered structurally equivalent.

Myth 2 – OSB will fall apart like particle board. This is untrue. Many have observed kitchen cabinets (many are largely made of covered particle board) which expand and even crumble after exposure to moisture. This would be quite unacceptable for a structural member of a home or building. However particle board is different than OSB in that it is not produced for exterior use. The truth is OSB is designed for longer exposure to exterior higher moisture conditions than even CDX.

Myth 3 Plywood is just better than OSB and its what I have always used. I would never suggest anyone changing against their own certainty however my experience is that such considerations do not stand up to evaluation. If one looks one will likely conclude that plywood is not \”better\” than OSB. Factually OSB is made from younger and smaller fibers and are actually faster to product when one includes the growth of the wood. There is great consistency in the product and it is more stable, in dimension, than plywood when exposed to moisture.

OSB has proven itself in the industry and is used in about 70% of homes in the U.S. I now specify it in my own designs and on my own projects unless the owner really insists on plywood. When this occurs I always make available the facts but will go with plywood if he or she chooses.

Oh, and when folks compare the prices of OSB and Plywood (OSB sometimes costing half as much) this is usually the deciding factor.

I believe that all of us should be open to newer and better ways to build our homes and buildings. OSB is one of those methods that I readily endorse.

Imagine this: You are building a home with either on your own or with the help of a general contractor. The project is finished and you take possession and move in as a happy owner of a brand new custom home.

You have faithfully paid every bill that was due. You finally pulled it off. It’s done.Then, out of the blue, you get notice that your brand new home has been slapped with a lien (a legal claim against your home for an amount stilled owed) for sums still owed for some materials or labor (or both) for which you are certain you have already paid.

How would you feel? Violated? Like after a burglary? You bet you would. After checking further you find out that one of the material or labor suppliers, a company that you may never have heard of, supplied products for your home and was never paid. Of course you paid your bills. But the guy you were paying did not. And that person is gone!

You might say, “That shouldn’t be my problem!”. Not correct. It is your problem.

The good news is that there are ways to avoid this painful situation. Here are a few suggestions (the last one most important):

•  If you are the owner-builder (ie. contracting your own home) make sure you know how every subcontractor (“sub”) who you hire is hiring their own labor forces and from whom they are obtaining materials. This may be tedious, but it is worth knowing. Your checking will put the sub on notice that you are watching. Find out if his workers are employees or is he sub-contracting (“subbing”) to them. If he is subbing, each sub has the legal right to lien your property if he or she is not paid. If they are not paid by the sub, they can come after you – even if you paid the sub.
•  If you are the owner-builder be sure to have a written contract with each sub. Do not go for “hand-shake” deals. If he is supplying materials as part of his agreement find out who the supplier is. Contact the supplier and make sure that the sub has an account which is up to date. If no account, then he is likely paying cash for the material which is totally fine.
•  If you are the owner-builder, when you pay a sub, get a release of lien from them and an affidavit that they have paid for all labor and materials that were part of their contract with you. This affidavit may not be worth much but it is another assurance that you can us. The above two and the next one are the most important.
•  And the last point, likely the most important, applies, whether you are the owner-builder or have a contractor who is building for you. All subs and material supplier who are not in direct contract with you are required, by law, in most states, to supply what is called a “Notice to Owner” document to you before they can place a lien on your property. This is a legal notification, sent to you by certified mail, that they are supplying materials or labor, or both, to your new home. So you should check your legal address routinely, during construction, and watch for these documents. There are certain time requirements and you should check your local state laws to determine these. Once that time has passed they can not lien your home, regardless if they were paid or not. If you get such a notice pay attention. Assure that that entity is paid before releasing funds to your contractor or sub. If he can’t do it, then double-party checks can work. You can find a way. Just remember that it is, ultimately, your legal responsibility to assure that these folks are paid.

Know the players, know the laws and pay attention. Awareness is the key.

Have fun.

I am often asked by my clients if we should use a masonry exterior wall or one that is framed in wood.

Masonry walls consist of concrete blocks stacked up from the slab to the full height of the wall. They are placed in beds of mortar and strengthened with embedded reinforcing steel and hollow cores full of concrete. The strength is dictated by wall thickness, height and density of reinforcement and, of course, loading conditions. Framed walls consist of wood studs usually 16″ on center with a stiff sheathing material, water proofing and some sort of siding on the outside such as stucco or siding. Let me answer a few common questions:

Can termites be a problem in wood framed homes?

If the framed wall is built correctly the answer is “no”. Pressure treated plates are used at the bottom of the wall. Termites hate PT wood and won’t eat through it. Also termite shield should be used. This is like flashing and is placed under the wall and extends out to block passage of subterranean termites in their attempts to travel up the wall. Those and routine maintenance, after construction, such as inspections and treatment allow homes to last a long time. There are many framed homes that are several centuries old which stand as proof that such construction methods are valid.

Is a masonry wall stronger than a framed wall?

In general, a framed wall can be built with adequate strength to handle hurricane winds and other forces. A wooden wall with proper sheathing, nailed properly, is quite strong. A masonry wall is also quite strong. Its strength is a function of its thickness, its height as well as the reinforcement used.

What about Cost? Would masonry or framed walls be cheaper in the long run?

Siding for a framed home can cost more than the typical stucco finishes used over block walls. However other factors, including speed of construction, cost of materials and labor tend to make framing an overall less expensive approach.

What about insulating masonry walls and framed walls?

Insulation is always a challenge with masonry walls. The blocks themselves are not good insulators. Insulation is usually achieved by placing a foil over the pressure treated furring strips, or foam sheets over the wall and can even include filling the cores with insulation. None of these achieve insulation as high as that achieved in a wood wall. Wood framed walls are usually insulated with batts ranging from R-11 right to up in the 20′s, depending upon wall thickness. Wood is generally easier to insulate to higher levels. One advantage of masonry is that it has a higher thermal mass which will tend to regulate temperatures a bit better.

Does the relative thickness of masonry walls take up more room in the house?

If one uses a standard 8″ masonry block and compares it to a typical 2×4 exterior wall, one can instantly see about a 5″ different in the amount of each exterior room that is taken up by the wall. Framing does take up less room.

These are just a few factors to consider. Framing the exterior walls of a home is an excellent way to proceed. Interestingly, most homes that I design are masonry because most folks tend to feel more comfortable with masonry walls. There is a perception of additional strength. But, frankly, the facts indicate that this is a false sense. If done properly (and it is important that it be done correctly) framing is a better value.

Looking to Build your own home yourself. Here are the Pros and Cons – in a Tough Economy

Should you build your own home without a contractor? There can be a strong incentive for the owner to take on the building project and hire the subcontractors and buy the materials directly.

Managing one’s own building project can be exciting but it can, at the same time, be risky. There are booby traps which, if not handled, will siphon away any savings. Considering being your own contractor? Here are some pros and cons:

Pros

• Saving Contractor Fees – A contractor tallies up the cost of materials and labor and adds 15% to 25% on top . This covers overhead costs and profit for his troubles. A viable markup is about 20%. You can save this markup by being your own contractor.
• Control – A building project involves dozens of workers. As contractor you are boss. You work directly with these people. You make special requests and assure the work is done to your own standards. Owners can often spend more time on the job than the professional contractor.
• Changes are relatively easy to make – Perhaps you find a good deal on fixtures or materials. Perhaps you find a place for a plant shelf, enlarge a closet or move a door. Good design and specifications will reduce the need for these changes but opportunities to change will be usually be found. As contractor you can accomplish these with minimum hassle.
• Pride – We have all felt the pride of accomplishment. It is a good feeling. Contracting your own home will give you a feeling of accomplishment that is nearly unmatched.

Cons

• If you’re financing your home, banks will not like it. Regardless of your experience, banks want the job done through a licensed construction company. There are many reasons: Owner-builders can involve the project in activities that the banks can’t condone ranging from “under the table” deals with unlicensed sub Contractors (resulting in lack of warranties, shoddy workmanship and many other problems). Additionally, the inexperienced builder is will likely to miss and allow errors to occur that are expensive to fix or are ignored and covered up. This can reduce the value of the home. Unless you are looking to finance your own project, being an owner-builder will be a problem.
• An experienced builder is aware of many things as they oversee a building project. Situations are noticed by the pro that may not become a real problems for several months. These can be handled when discovered. This foresight is a mark of an experienced builder. It is an awareness created by experience. If the Owner-Builder lacks that ability regarding construction there can be expensive ramifications.
• Some sub contractors and material suppliers take advantage of inexperience. They may provide bids for services and products that are not complete – then charge extras later when you discover that a vital aspect was missing. Also subcontractors know that it is often more difficult to deal directly with owners due to inexperience as well as a “this is my baby” attitude than can be burdensome to them. Prices of materials and labor can be higher in the long run – eating into any savings.
• Time is a factor. Contractors earn their fees. A well-run project requires lots of attention – including obtaining bids, managing subcontracts, creating material lists, monitoring the work, getting inspections and babysitting the inspectors. If you are retired or not working this may not be a problem. It is important to remember that the time you spend is valuable itself however only you can judge its true value.

Summary

After more than 30 years in the business, working with owner-builders and contractors (and being both myself), I sincerely believe that hiring a contractor, especially in these times (2011) is the better way to proceed. Contractors are making deals these days. The ones still standing are generally experienced and worthy of trust. The contractor’s fee saved will likely be wasted in ways that are unforeseen to you unless you are experienced in the industry.

It is not a question if you CAN build a home yourself. The question is – SHOULD YOU? In my opinion, the answer is usually, “No”. A licensed and experienced contractor will prove worth his or her fees and will save you money and headaches in the long run.

Engineering Hiring Demand Jumps 59% in 2011

Source: EngineerDesigner

Employers and staffing agencies in the Engineering Services sector posted more than 23,000 new job ads during the past 60 days. This is a 36% increase over the same period last year, and a 59% boost from the beginning of 2011.

The top 20 jobs Engineering Services firms are looking to fill are listed below, along with the percentage change from 2010. Civil, Industrial, Electrical and Mechanical engineers make up the top engineering occupations, and with the addition of Computer Systems Analysts, round out the top five in-demand occupations in the sector. 19 of the top 20 occupations showed double-digit growth in demand during the past 60 days, compared to the same period in 2010.

Employers Struggle to Find Engineers

A recent Talent Shortage Survey from ManpowerGroup found that 52% of U.S. employers today are having difficulty filling jobs.

Best-Paying College Major: Engineering

Engineering majors continue to boast fatter salary offers than their peers, according to the most recent survey from the National Association of Colleges and Employers.

Majors in the engineering field dominated the association’s list of top-paying degrees for the class of 2011, with four of the top five spots going to engineering majors. Each of these majors receive average starting salary offers of more than $60,000.

The only non-engineering major among the top five was computer science, which earned graduating students average starting salary offers of $63,017.

Mid-Year Construction Forecast

(reprinted from “design+build”)

According to economists, the recession ended in June 2009, but for most Americans it doesn’t feel that way. And for builders, that’s the reality according to information out of the Mid-Year Construction Forecast conference held by Associated Builders and Contractors on June 8, 2011. Speakers on the Web conference included: Anirban Basu, chief economist, ABC; David Crowe, chief economist, National Association of Home Builders; and Kermit Baker, chief economist, American Institute of Architects.

“Residential construction usually leads [the country] out of a recession,” Crowe said in the webcast. However, residential construction is not going to be the cause of a recovery this time around, but rather job recovery will lead us back to normal levels.

Crowe discussed positive events taking place today:

• Low mortgage rates
• Ratio of house prices to income are at normal levels: People used to buy homes three times their income, but were buying at five times their income during the boom. The ratio is now back down to three times the income – the normal level.
• Affordability is high
• Low inventory of homes
• Pent-up demand

Crowe also discussed negative events:

• Lacking job market
• House price declined again: This might affected by recent flood of foreclosures.
• Consumer confidence

Kermit Baker emphasized job and consumer confidence recovery as key to a positive construction forecast. “[The housing market] began to recover in 2010 then stabilized in 2011 and declined in April 2011,” he said in the webcast. “Recovery is expected in the latter 2011, but 2012 will be better.”

Baker listed the top 10 growth markets: Boston, Washington, D.C., Pittsburgh, Columbus, Ohio, Dallas, Houston, San Antonio, San Diego, and Riverside, Calif. The top 10 markets that declined included many areas that were over-built during the boom: Seattle, Portland, Phoenix, Chicago, Detroit, St. Louis, Baltimore, Jacksonville, Fla., Orlando and Miami.

Anirban Basu projected 2016 as the year when the housing market will be back at a complete recovery. Baby Boomers will retire which they’ve been putting off, and more jobs will available, Basu said in the webcast.

When asked specifically about the custom home market recovery in regards to new construction, Crowe said: “The custom market has put a floor on total production.  While it has fallen like other components of the market, the level of production has leveled off for that component of the new construction. The component of the new home sales has been about one-third of the market but fell to under 20 percent in the mid-2000s as speculative homes became the norm. Custom is back up to about 30 percent of the market and should continue to be one steady element.”

Light Sports Aircraft (LSA) are an exciting new area of aviation that has spurred much interest to new and old aviators alike. It is a very exciting type of flying though it does have a few limitations. More pilots are opting towards this new genre of flying and are looking for places to fly. Aviation Communities can offer an exciting and affordable way for pilots to have, keep and fly these little possessions right at their own home.

What is LSA? LSA aircraft are limited to a gross weight of 1320 lbs (1430 lbs for sea planes). Their stall speed is limited to 51 mph and their level flight speed may not exceed 138 mph (which is pretty fast). They are limited to one or two seats, a single engine, fixed props (that do not change pitch), fixed landing gear and numerous other but quite reasonable criteria. Additionally, getting the license, if not already a regular pilot, is easier that getting the full pilot’s license.

Many older pilots, feeling very healthy, none the less worry about the day the medical examiner says, “You can’t fly anymore”. This can be a sad day to a person who has loved aviation all his or her life. One big benefit is that with LSA there is no medical exam required to fly. Pilots are left to make their own judgments as to their own fitness to fly. This can be a big deal to many aviators.

Not only is gaining a license to fly LSA airplanes, seasoned pilot, often after long careers in aviation, sometimes are seeking simplicity. They want to get into a simple aircraft, that burns less gas than their more standard brethren and simply soar the heavens as they dreamed of doing as kids.

Though simple in many ways, many of these new LSA models are all but simple. Many are made of very modern composite materials, have sophisticated navigation and other avionics and have other qualities that turn the heads of the most ardent pilots. And with 100′s of manufacturers out there, the competition is helping to keep the prices in line. Also, as the fleet ages, we can expect prices to come down even more.

With more and more getting into aviation by way of LSA, there becomes the problem of where to keep these little puppies. Most of us love to have our most valued possessions close by – in our garage or out in the yard. With any type of aircraft, including LSA, this poses a problem. Runways are required to takeoff and land these airplanes. Usually this means keeping one’s airplane several miles away at the local airport and enduring commutes back and forth to fly or just “be” with you airplane.

Fortunately, airplanes can be stored near home. There are aviation communities out there (most every state in the United States has them) where the homes have hangar (small or large) and the communities share one or more runways. You will see, in these communities, airplanes, large and small, taxiing along the same streets as the cars, as they make their way to or from the runway. These unique communities are populated with the most interesting folks who share a common interest. Living in one of these communities, you can decide you want to be in the air and literally be flying within minutes. What freedom!

Building lots and even existing homes in such communities are being offered at surprisingly excellent prices these days as all segments of real estate remain in recovery mode.

If you have ever dreamed to be a pilot, or if you are a current pilot who has not flown in a while or even seasoned and active, and dreamed of being able to fly with the birds on a moment’s notice, free of large airports, free of the commute to the airport, perhaps it’s a good time to get out there and see what is available in your local fly-in community.

One can but a hangar home that is already built or a lot to build upon. Right now purchasing a piece of land and having that “perfect” home and hangar designed can be an excellent enterprise because there are some excellent construction deals out there (mid-2011). There are many builders who are just looking for something to do. Why not take advantage?

It is never too late to take the action to land yourself in one of these communities. The perfect time is now. For season pilots or even for those yet to learn, LSA aircraft and a personal hangar home are likely less costly than you might have predicted.

Regardless of where you are located, with today’s screen to screen technology all design activities can be done easily and with full collaboration regardless of distance between the designer and client.

• Save travel costs
• Collaborate from the comfort of your own space – as you work and meet directly with the designer.
• Take advantage of the designer’s design equipment and software in real time.

Which is more desirable – a single or a multi story home? This is an intriguing subject which I am frequently asked. The reply is, as is typical with many such debates, ” It depends”. There are pluses and minuses to each. Let’s inspect the pros and cons of these two choices and then weigh the outlay to build each type.

Plus-points of a Single Story:

• Easier to build. – Framing and other structural requirements are usually less.
• No stairs – Stairs can be beautiful to view but sometimes are a deal-breaker, especially if there are current or foreseen disability issues.
• A more sprawled design – one can generally place elements farther apart on a single story home. It’s sometimes helpful to have the master bedroom and the kids bedrooms separated adequately.

Cons of a Single-Story

• Takes up more room on the property.
• If it has a basement then that can be so huge as to be unmanagable.
• Generally more roofing area which can create more occasion to leak.

Pros of a Two-Story

• More compact – Can fit more onto a single, small lot.
• The look – Two or more story homes can be quite sensational. One can have two story atriums, majestic entries, etc. that really set the home design apart.
• Separation – There are types of separation that can in fact be done better on a two-story. Getting the bedrooms upstairs can get them separated nicely from more common spaces below. In homes where entertainment is to be done this can be a nice quality.

Cons of a Two-Story

• More complex to build.
• Can cause accessibility situations in certain cases.
• Present a larger area for wind forces – structures will have to be a bit complicated.

Investment Comparison:

In my time as a designer and builder one and two story homes tend to be similar in price tag.:

• A two story home has one roof which covers more living area which makes it it more cost effective. Point for 2-story
• A two-story home has one slab/foundation system which works to support more structure – thereby a bit more cost effective. Point for 2-story.
• A single story has a simpler structural system – usually simple exterior walls and a roof – whereby the two story has the stairs and the upper floor system. Point for 1- story.
• With a two-story one can get away with a smaller lot. Point for 2-story.
• With a single story one can utilize, especially with cement block walls, a less expensive finish such as stucco over block. On a two-story we always have the issue of how to cover the second floor. Point for 1-story.
• On a single story homes, most through the roof venting, including chimneys, may be run to a lower height. Heating ducts and piping can be complex on a two-story. Point for 1-story.

Though costs tend to balance out, for any given living area, the the call as to which to build will be hinged upon many things – but mostly upon what you want. You may have fond memories in an old 2-story home you were a child in up north. As in all design, you create what you want.

This is the great thing about custom design and built homes. You are the final say! It’s up to you. Hire an expert designer and engineer and you can create and build most anything.

As in most beautiful things, beach homes are easy to appreciate and love, but there is a significant background of technical and legal issues that must be met to bring them into being.

The undertaking, like so many in our country, is now mostly owned by governmental regulators who act, almost daily, to protect just about anything and everything that comes to their minds. Restrictions have become most onerous. But they are finite and can, with professional guidance, be handle.

Here are five 5 issues, unique to building on a beach, that need to be considered:

Elevation -  Determined by zoning, the elevation of the main floor of the structure must be considered. This is established as a BFE (Base Flood Elevation) which is a specified height above sea level. It is required that the bottom of the lowest horizontal structural member be at or above this elevation. Finish floors will generally be higher. It is VITAL that this be done correctly and verified by a registered surveyor. I have seen projects built just inches below these requirements which had to be demolished and rebuilt. The officials take this quite seriously.

FEMA – The Federal Emergency Management Agency has developed codes and requirements that affect structures on the beach. These include what types and the sizes of enclosed spaces that may be built on the ground (below the required elevation), the types of materials allowed, electrical restrictions, and many other requirements. Also, if one intends to enclose the space under the home (for parking or storage) the enclosing walls must be designed to break away during a storm event. These are called “break-away” walls and their purpose is to allow storm water to flow naturally without hindrance.

Pilings – Beach homes will usually be on stilts (columns). These will be supported by pilings which are driven into the ground. Pilings are designed to hold if a portion of the soil around them erodes away during the storm. Pilings are designed by a Geotechnical Engineer who specializes in ground investigation and design. Additionally, a Structural Engineer will assure that the loads are adequately supported against water, wind and gravity forces.

Windborn Debris – Doors and Windows must be designed to withstand significant winds as well as the impact of high-velocity projectiles. These are known as “Impact Resistant” windows and doors and can be purchased from numerous manufactures.

DER – The Department of Environmental Regulation will be intimately involved. They assure that wetlands are considered, beach features remain undisturbed, and that wildlife is protected. Lighting is controlled so that beach mice and sea turtles are not adversely affected by the night lights coming from the structure. Additional setback requirements (in addition to the local requirements) are sometimes imposed by DER.

Beach home design, while exciting and aesthetic, is quite technical. However, many consider it worth it to achieve the ultimate in living in Florida and southeastern coastal states. The requirements are numerous – but finite. There are only so many.

Hiring a good professional designer is your best bet to assure that you are guided through the process thoroughly and beautifully.